FOOD PRODUCTION

CHAPTER: 6

UNDERSTANDING VEGETABLES

Vegetables have long been abused and neglected, relegated to the minor roles of unimportant side dishes, to be taken or left, or at times, not even noticed on the table. Today, however, the lowly vegetables are beginning to be appreciated, not only for their nutritional importance, but for the variety, flavor, eye appeal and even elegance and sophistication they bring to the menu. Modern chefs owe it to themselves and their customers to treat vegetables with understanding, imagination and respect that they deserve. Because they are so perishable, vegetables require extra care from receiving to service. Freshness is their most appealing quality and one must be careful to it. The goal of good vegetable cookery is to preserve and enhance their fresh flavor, texture and color, to prepare and serve vegetables that are not just accepted but sought after.

As a chef you will have the choice of a multitude of vegetables and methods of cooking them. Cooking affects vegetables in four ways:

1. Texture
2. Flavor
3. Color
4. Nutrients

How much these four characteristics change determines if your final product is attractive and delicious to the customer or if it will end up in the garbage bin. You can control these changes if you know what causes them, and how they happen.

CONTROLING TEXTURE CHANGE

Changing the texture is one of the main purposes of cooking vegetables.

FIBER:

The fiber structure of vegetables (including cellulose and pectin) gives them shape and firmness. Cooking softens some of these components. The amount of fiber varies

• In different vegetables. Spinach (palak) and tomatoes have less than French beans and drumsticks.
• In different examples of the same vegetables. Older carrots have more fibers than the younger ones.
• In the same vegetable. The florets of cauliflower have fewer fibers than the tough stalk.

Fiber is made firmer by:

1. Acids. Lemon juice, vinegar and tomato, when added to vegetables during cooking extend the cooking time.
2. Sugars. Sugar strengthens the cell structure. You will understand this principle better in Fruit cookery.

Fiber is softened by:

1. Heat. In general, longer cooking means softer vegetables.
2. Alkalis. Do not add alkalis such as baking soda while cooking vegetables (especially the green ones, to retain their color). Not only does it destroy vitamins, but also it makes the vegetables unpleasantly mushy.

STARCH:

Starch is another vegetable component that affects texture.

1. Dry starchy food like dried beans, rice and macaroni must be cooked in sufficient water so that the starch granules can absorb moisture and soften. Dried beans are usually soaked in water before cooking to replace lost moisture.
2. Moist starchy vegetables like potatoes and sweet potatoes have enough moisture of their own, but they still must be cooked until the starch granules soften.

DONENESS:

A vegetable is said to be done when it has reached the desired degree of tenderness. This stage varies from vegetable to vegetable. Some such as eggplant (brinjal) and pumpkin (doodhi/lauki) are considered properly cooked when they are quite soft. Most vegetables, however, are best cooked very briefly, until they are al dente (firm to the bite). At this stage of tenderness, they not only have the most pleasing texture, but they retain the maximum taste, color flavor and nutrients.

GUIDELINES FOR ACHIEVING PROPER DONENESS IN VEGETABLES

1. Do not overcook.
2. Cook as close to the service time as possible. Keeping them in a hot counter or bain-marie continues to cook them.
3. If vegetables must be cooked in advance, slightly undercook them, cool rapidly in cold water, drain, and refrigerate, then reheat at the service time.
4. For uniform doneness, cut into uniform sizes before cooking.
5. Don’t mix batches of cooked vegetables. They are likely to be cooked to slightly different doneness.
6. Vegetables with both tough and tender parts need special treatment.

CONTROLLING COLOR CHANGES

Cooking produces flavor loss:

Many flavors are lost during cooking, by dissolving in the cooking liquid and by evaporation. The longer a vegetable is cooked, the more flavor it loses. Flavor loss can be controlled in many ways:

1. Cook for as short a time as possible.
2. Use boiling salted water. Starting vegetables in boiling water shortens the cooking time. The addition of salt helps reduce flavor loss. The exception here are the starchy vegetables and root vegetables which need to be started in cold water so that the starch granules have time to soften.
3. Use only enough water to cover the vegetables to minimize leaching.
4. Steam vegetables when appropriate.
5. Add a small amount of oil to the cooking water. This will absorb some of the lost flavor and will cling to the vegetables when drained.

With certain strong flavored vegetables, it is desirable to lose some of their flavors to make them more appealing in taste. These include onion, garlic, cabbage and turnips.

Cooking produces flavor change:

Cooked vegetables do not taste the same as raw vegetables, because cooking produces certain chemical changes. As long as the vegetable is not overcooked, these changes are desirable. It produces the flavors one looks for in cooked vegetables.

Cooking and sweetness:

Young vegetables have a high sugar content. Green peas and corn for example. As they mature or sit in storage, the sugar gradually turns into starch.

1. Try to serve young fresh vegetables that have been stored for as short a time a possible.
2. For older vegetables, add a small amount of sugar to replace lost sweetness.

CONTROLLING COLOR CHANGES

It is important to preserve as much of natural color as possible, when cooking vegetables. Customers may accept or reject a vegetable only on the basis of its color! Visual quality is as important as its flavor or nutritive value.

Pigments are compounds that give vegetables their color. Different pigments react in different ways to heat and to other elements that may be present during cooking.

WHITE VEGETABLES

White pigments are called FLAVONES, are the primary coloring compounds in potatoes, onions, cauliflower and white cabbage, and the white part of vegetables such as cucumber and eggplant (brinjal). White pigments are enhanced in acids and turn yellow in alkaline water. So add a drop or two of lemon juice while cooking cauliflower and cabbage to brighten the whiteness. Cooking for a short time in a steamer helps maintain color (and flavor and nutrients as well). Overcooking or holding for service for too long a time turns white vegetables dull yellow or grey.

RED VEGETABLES

Red pigments, called ANTHOCYANINS are found only in a few vegetables such as red cabbage, beetroot and the skin of eggplant. This pigment also colors blueberries. Red pigments react very strongly with acid and alkali mediums. Acid turns them brighter red and alkali turns then blue or blue-green (not a very appetizing color). Beetroot and red cabbage must therefore be cooked with a little vinegar to maintain the color. Red pigments dissolve easily in water. This means:

• use short cooking times
• use only as much of water as is necessary
• cook beetroots whole and unpeeled to protect the color

GREEN VEGETABLES

Green coloring, or CHLOROPHYLL is present in all green plants. Green vegetables are very common in the kitchen, so it is important to understand the special handling required by this vegetable. Acids are enemies of green vegetables. Both acids and long cooking turn green vegetables into a drab olive green color. Protect the brightness of green vegetables by

• Cooking uncovered to allow plant acid to escape.
• Cooking for as short a time as possible.
• Cooking in small batches

Do not use baking soda while cooking green vegetables. Soda may retain the color for a short time but will destroy the vitamins and makes the texture unpleasantly mushy. Use large amounts of water here as this helps to dissolve the plant acids, but may lead to loss of nutrients.

YELLOW & ORANGE VEGETABLES

Yellow and orange pigments are called CAROTENOIDS and are found in carrots, tomatoes and red peppers (capsicums). These pigments are very stable. They are little affected by acids, alkalis and overcooking. Short cooking will help prevent dulling of the color and will preserve nutrients and flavor.

CONTROLLING NUTRIENT LOSSES

Vegetables are an important part of our diets because they supply a wide variety of essential nutrients. They are our major sources of vitamins A & C and are rich in many other vitamins and minerals. Unfortunately, many of these nutrients are easily lost. The following factors are responsible for nutrient loss:

1. High temperature.
2. Long cooking.
3. Leaching (dissolving out).
4. Alkalis like baking soda and hard water.
5. Plant enzymes (active at warm temperatures but destroyed by high heat).
6. Oxygen.

Some nutrient loss is inevitable. It is impossible to avoid all the above conditions at the same time. Pressure-cooking shortens the cooking time but the high heat destroys the nutrients. Braising uses low heat, but the cooking time is slow. Cutting the vegetables into smaller pieces decreases cooking time but encourages leaching by creating more surface area exposed.

Tests have shown that no more nutrient loss occurs when cooking in a lot of water. The best cooking methods, nutritionally, are usually those that produce the most attractive, flavorful products. They are more likely to be eaten. Discarded vegetables benefit no one, no matter how nutritious they are. Factors that destroy nutrients are often those that destroy color, flavor and texture.

GENERAL RULES OF VEGETABLE COOKERY

1. Do not over cook the vegetables.
2. Cook as close to the service time as possible and in small quantities.
3. Undercook vegetables that need to be cooked ahead of time.
4. Never use alkali (baking soda) with green vegetables.
5. Cut vegetables evenly for uniform cooking.
6. When boiling, start preferably with boiling salted water.
7. Cook green and strong flavored vegetables uncovered.
8. Do not cook different colored vegetables together.
9. To preserve color, cook red and white vegetables in an acid medium. Cook green vegetables and carotenoids in a neutral medium.
10. Do not mix batches of cooked vegetables.

STORAGE

Fresh Vegetables:

1. Dry vegetables like potatoes and onions are stored at cool temperatures (50-65°F/ 10-18°C) in a dry dark place.
2. Other vegetables must be refrigerated. To prevent drying, they should be covered or wrapped, or the humidity in the cooler should be high. Provide for some air circulation to prevent mold.
3. Peeled and cut vegetables need special attention and protection from oxidation. Cover or wrap and use quickly to prevent spoilage. Potatoes and eggplant and other vegetables that brown easily should be treated with an acid or antioxidant. As an alternative, they may be blanched to destroy the enzymes that cause browning.
4. Store all fresh vegetables for as short a time as possible. They lose quality rapidly. Peas and corn lose their sweetness and freshness even after just a few hours in storage.

Frozen Vegetables:

1. Store at 0°F (-18°C) or colder
2. Do not refreeze thawed vegetables. Quality will be greatly reduced.

YIELD OF SOME COMMON VEGETABLES

Most vegetables will require some sort of prepreparation before the are ready fore cooking. These include peeling, de seeding etc. Below is a rough guide to the yields to be expected.

VEGETABLE YIELD

Asparagus 55%

Beans (dried) 88%

Beans (French/runner/cluster) 88%

Beetroot 75%

Broccoli 75%

Brussels sprouts 80%

Cabbage (green/white/red) 80%

Carrots 80%

Cauliflower 55%

Celery 75%

Cucumber 90%

Eggplant (Brinjal) 90%

Garlic 70%

Leeks 50%

Lettuce 75%

Mushrooms 98%

Okra (lady fingers) 82%

Onions (dry) 88%

Onions (green/spring) 70%

Parsley 85%

Peas 40%

Peppers (capsicum: red/green) 82%

Potatoes 80%

Potatoes 9Sweet) 80%

Radish (mooli) 90%

Spinach (and other greens) 50-75%

Tomatoes 95%

COLOR PIGMENT CHART

Pigment Color Effect of Effect of Overcooking Examples

Acid Alkali

_________________________________________________________________

FLAVONE

ANTHOCY-

ANIN

CAROTENOID

CHLOROPHYLL

Assignment: Visit the local market and list the seasonal vegetables available.

Find out their local and English names and the price/unit as well.

vernon coelho

vfc/fpp 1.12

ihm mumbai

CHAPTER XII: Understanding vegetables (contd.) POTATO

For some strange reason, the potato is considered to be a humble vegetable. In fact, almost like adding insult to injury, there is also a comic connotation added to it. Take for example the synonym `spud’. It immediately conjures up an image of a fat old idiot. Or the term `couch potato’. Again the word is comically derogatory! And this. Whenever the price of potato goes up, there is almost comic disbelief about it. `Can you believe it, the potato too? They have raised the price of the potato as well!!’ Like as if the potato has no moral right to have its price increased!

But for all its comic insinuations, the potato remains a popular and universal food. What is rather surprising, the universal part that is, considering the fact that the tuber was unknown in Europe until 1534. How the potato became so popular in Europe in an interesting and unbelievable story.

The potato was originally grown in the America’s, especially by the Incas. The adventurer Pizarro found the vegetable in Peru, and like most things they found there, they carried it back to Spain in 1534. Half a century laterEnglishman Walter Raleigh, made the same discovery in what is now the state of Virginia in the USA and brought the potato to England. He, by the way also introduced tobacco to the rest of Europe.

In case you are interested, the American Indian word for the tuber is patata, from which is derived the Spanish word batata. So now you know where the Indian word comes from. The same word was corrupted to potato in English.

By the end of the 16^th century, the potato was being grown in France, Germany, Russia and Italy. But for long it was considered a food fit only for the poor and animals, especially in France. But all that changed when Antoine Augustin Parmentier (1737-1813), a military pharmacist and agro scientist `discovered’ the potato. His contribution to popularizing the tuber is so great, that it is mistakenly believed that he invented the potato! During a local war when he was taken prisoner, Parmentier discovered the nutritional value of the vegetable, which was already cultivated in France. The potato was used in the form of flour mixed with wheat to make bread. But it was still considered indigestible and a food fore the destitute; the French nobility never ate it!

In 1772, a French organization announced a prize for suggesting a plant that could be used to tide over any future famine. Parmentier recommended the potato , for which he won the prize. In 1778, he wrote a book describing the nutritional value of the vegetable. The book won the support of the aristocracy and the rulers like Voltaire and King Louis XVI. The king in fact encouraged Parmentier’s efforts. The potato was on its way to stardom!

Louis XVI also wore the potato flower in his buttonhole, as a result, other aristocracy followed suit. Several noblemen planted potatoes on their estates. But, even this was not enough to win over all the people of France. Hence the government devised a ruse to popularize the tuber. The crops in Paris were guarded by the army during the daytime, making it appear that the potato was a precious commodity. At night the crops were left unguarded – as a deliberate invitation to thieves. The thieves came and became unwitting propagandists of this new vegetable.

But any prejudice against the potato vanished when during a banquet in honor of Benjamin Franklin in Paris; Parmentier prepared a menu of just potatoes. This vastly raised the stock of the vegetable! Parmentier encouraged the spread of potato throughout France, by distributing booklets about its cultivation and use. He became so popular that for a time, the potato was called parmentier in his honor. He has also till this day several dishes named after him. Many dishes having potato as the main ingredient is called parmentier e.g.: Potage Parmentier

vernon coelho

ihm mumbai