CONSOMME

CONSOMME IS A CLARIFIED STOCK. However, when we define consommé, we forget its literal meaning, which is completed or concentrated. In other words, consommé is a strong, concentrated clarified stock. Rule number one for preparing a consommé is that the stock must be strong, rich and concentrated (full-bodied). Clarification is second in importance to strength. A good consommé with a mellow but full aroma and plenty of body from the natural gelatin that you can feel in your mouth, is one of the great pleasures of fine cuisine!

HOW CLARIFICATION WORKS:

Coagulation of proteins was an important subject in our discussion on stock making, because one of our major concerns was how to keep coagulated proteins from making the stock cloudy. Strangely enough, it is this same process of coagulation that enables us to clarify stock to perfect transparency. Remember some proteins especially that called albumin, will dissolvein cold water. When the water is heated, they gradually solidify or coagulate and rise to the surface. If we control this process very carefully, these proteins will collect all the tiny particles that cloud a stock and will carry them to the surface. The stock is then left perfectly clear. If, on the other hand, we are not careful, these proteins will break up as they coagulate and will cloud the liquid even more, just as they can do when we make stock.

BASIC INGREDIENTS:

The mixture that we use to clarify the stock is called the clearmeat or the clarification.

1. Lean minced meat is the major source of protein that enables the clearmeat to do its job. It also contributes towards the flavor of the consommé. It must be lean because fat is undesirable in a consommé as it will float on the surface after straining and give a greasy appearance to the soup. Beef shin and shank is the best cut to use as it is rice in albumin proteins as well as in flavor and gelatin, and it is very lean. Chicken meat should be used to clarify chicken stock and beef used for a beef consommé. Obviously, meat would not be used to clarify a fish stock! Although, ground fish meat could be used to clarify fish stock, often it is omitted altogether and only egg whites used in its place.

2. Egg whites are included in the clearmeat, because being mainly albumin; they greatly strengthen the clarifying power.

3. Mirepoix and other seasoning and flavoring ingredients are usually included because they add flavor to the finished consommé. They do not actually help in the clarification process except possibly to give solidity to the raft. The raft is the coagulated clearmeat floating in a solid mass on top of the consommé. The mirepoix must be cut into small pieces as it must float with the raft as well as the maximum exposed surface area will aid extraction of flavor and nutritive value. A larger amount of a particular vegetable may be added if a distinct flavor is called for, for example, celery flavored consommé.

4. Acidic ingredients like vinegar and tomato for beef and chicken consommé and lemon juice and white wine for fish consommé are added because the acidity helps with the coagulation process.

5. Seasoning and flavorings like salt, peppercorns and bayleaf are usually added.

PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING CONSOMME:

1. Start with a well flavored and cooled down stock. If the stock is weak, reduce it to concentrate, then allow to cool and then begin. Else, simmer the consommé longer than the recommended time.

2. Select a heavy stockpot.

3. Combine the clearmeat ingredients in the stockpot and mix vigorously. Mix in a small amount of water. This allows the proteins, which do the clarifying to dissolve out of the meat. Some chefs will disagree on the importance of this step and will omit it altogether ( the addition of the water, that is).

4. Gradually add the cool, degreased stock and mix well with the clearmeat. The stock needs to be cool so that it does not cook the proteins on contact. Mixing the clearmeat will distribute the proteins throughout the stock so that they can collect all the impurities more easily.

5. Set the pot over a full fire and allow it to heat, stirring gently. This prevents the proteins of the egg white from settling at the bottom and burning. Let it come to a boil.

6. As the stock heats up stop the stirring. As the stock comes to a boil, the clearmeat will rise to the surface as the raft and float on the top.

7. Reduce the fire to as low as possible so that the liquid maintains a slow simmer. Do not cover the vessel. Boiling would break up the raft and cloud the consommé. The same principle was used in stock making, remember?!

8. Simmer without disturbing the raft, for about half an hour to 45 minutes.

9. Strain the consommé carefully through a wet muslin cloth. Do not force the liquid through or press the raft. Or fine particles will seep through and cloud the consommé.

10. Degrease to remove all traces of fat from the surface. Use strips of brown paper to absorb traces of fat.

11. Adjust the seasoning.

EMERGENCY PROCEDURES:

1. Clarifying hot stock: if you do not have the time to cool the stock properly, at least cool it as much as you can. A cold water bath for even 10 minutes will be helpful. Then mix crushed ice cubes with the clearmeat before adding the stock. This will help to prevent the meat from coagulating when the stock hits it.

2. Clarifying without meat: In a pinch, you could clarify stock using egg whites alone. Use extra egg whites and a little mirepoix if possible. Make sure that the stock in this case is a good and concentrated one. Care must be taken in this case as the raft is a very fragile one and may tend to break easily. Egg white and mirepoix are often used alone to clarify fish stock.

3. Failed clarification: If the clarification process has failed because you allowed it to boil to long or for any other reason, it can still be rescued. Strain the consommé and allow it to cool as much as you can. Now slowly add it to a mixture of ice cubes and egg white. Carefully return the pan to a simmer and proceed with the clarification. However, the ice cubes will dilute the stock and this procedure must be used in emergencies only.

4. Poor color: Beef or Veal consommés made from a brown stock must be amber in color and not dark brown. Chicken consommé will be pale amber. To improve the color, add a drop of caramel after straining, or a cut and browned (on a griddle) slice of onion, before the clarification.

BASIC CONSOMME:

Stock

(Chicken/beef/veal/fish) 1 liter

Lean meat (suitable) 100 GMS

Onion 30 GMS

Carrot 30 GMS

Celery 20 GMS

Egg white 1-2

(shell optional)

Vinegar/lemon juice/ 15 ml

wine (red or white)or

Tomato 20 gms

Peppercorn 4-6 nos.

Bayleaf 1 no

Salt a pinch

vernon coelho

ihm mumbai

2008-09