Wednesday, October 14, 2009

CHAPTER 4.

CLEANING AGENTS

Cleaning is primarily the removal of dust and dirt. Dust to being composed of loose particles, is removed comparatively by the use of various types of equipments, dirt however, owing to this adherence to surfaces by means of grease or moisture, requires the use of cleaning agents in conjuration with the right equipment if it is to be removed efficiently.

Cleaning agents in general can be defined as natural or synthetic substances that are used to assist the cleaning process – that is, removal of dirt and grit and the maintenance of a clean appearance on the surface. The various kinds of cleaning agents used by the housekeeping department staff are depicted in Figure 7.8 .

Cleaning Agents

Abrasives

Reagents

Organic solvents

Detergents

Water

Floor Strippers

Toilet cleaners

Deodorizers

Disinfectants & bleaches

Laundry aids

Glass cleaners

Floor sealers

Polishes

Carpet cleaners

Fig. 7.8 Various types of cleaning agents

WATER : -

Referred to as the universal solvent, this is the prime agent in the cleaning process. However, though an excellent solvent, water alone is not a sufficiently effective cleanser to meet the standards most hotels require. Indeed, it does not even wet a surface properly, as its surface tension prevents it from spreading easily. For water to be effective in cleaning, it must be used in conjunction with other cleaning agents such as detergents, soaps and so on. From the perspective of cleaning, there are two types of water – hard water and soft water. Soft water is ideal for cleaning purposes and also to make up the proper dilutions of other cleaning agents.

Sources of water

Water is available in abundance in some parts of the country, but is scarce in others. Sources of water may be surface, sub-soil or deep soil.

Surface water- Obtained from streams, rivers and lakes, it may contain both organic and inorganic impurities in large amounts.

Sub-soil water- Coming from shallow wells and springs, it is not likely to be contaminated with suspended matter and organic impurities. However, some gases and mineral matter are generally dissolved in it.

Deep soil water- Deep soil water, pumped up from deep wells, has percolated through, much soil and rock to reach its resting depth. Therefore it has a very high content of minerals such as calcium, magnesium, iron, sulphur, phosphates and silica as well as dissolved gases such as nitrogen, carbon dioxide and oxygen. The mineral salts dissolved in this water results in its hardness and render it unsuitable for cleaning purpose.

These days most of the cities, towns and some villages have running water supplied by the public works department (PWD). This water is filtered and chlorinated before being piped.

Hard water and soft water

Water that contains more than 60 ppm (parts per million) of calcium and/or magnesium is called hard water. When the mineral content is in the range of 61-120 ppm, the water is said to be more moderately hard and if it exceeds 180 ppm, the water is considered very hard. When the level of dissolved calcium and/or magnesium is below 60 ppm, it is said to be soft water. However, water from all sources contains varying amounts of calcium and magnesium, usually in the form of bicarbonates, sulphates and chlorides. It is their relative proportions that determine how ‘hard’ the water is and in what way.

Temporary hardness- This is caused by bicarbonates of calcium and magnesium being dissolved in water. Temporary hardness is so called because it can be removed by simply heating the water to a temperature above 72o C.

Permanent hardness- This is caused by sulphates and chlorides of calcium and magnesium dissolved in water. It cannot be removed by boiling and requires chemical treatment to render the water ‘soft’.

Effects of hard water

Calcium and magnesium salts dissolved in water inhibit lather formation from soaps and detergents, so that much more detergent will have to be added to precipitate out the calcium and the magnesium before cleaning can occur. This process causes a lot of scum to be formed, which may further soil the surface, when hard water is used for laundering, for instance, it causes premature ageing of fabrics due to constant friction with the deposits from hard water. They also become coarse and uncomfortable to wear. Hard water also causes scale and fur to be deposited in boilers, pipes and various appliances. Iron and sulphur salts can cause discolouration. Sulphur also causes a rotten – egg odour. Dissolved phosphates, on the other hand, can actually enhance the cleaning power of some detergents.

Methods of softening water

Water which has hardness greater than 50 ppm needs to be softened. Temporary hardness can be removed by boiling (or heating above 72oC). In the reaction that takes place at these temperatures, dissolved bicarbonates decompose with the liberation of carbon dioxide and the carbonates precipitate out as scum or fur these should be removed by filtration before using the water for cleaning.

Ca(HCO3)2 CaCO3 + CO2 + H2O

In the case of magnesium bicarbonates, the resultant carbonate further decomposes into magnesium hydroxide


Mg(HCO3)2 MgCO3 + CO2 + H2O

MgCO3 + H2O Mg(OH)2 + CO2

The most practical way of removing hardness , however, is to treat it chemically. This is done in one of the following ways :

Alkali method - The alkali calcium hydroxide is used to remove the hardness from water in this method.

Lime soda method – In this method, sodium carbonate and calcium hydroxide are both used to remove the hardness.

Addition of sequestering/chelating agents – Sequestering agents are organic or inorganic compounds that react with metallic ions and form a complex. These metallic ions will still be present in the water, but will be unable to react with soaps or detergents as they are held in the complex formation. Thus the water is rendered soft. The most commonly used sequestering agents are EDTA (ethyl diamine tetra acetic acid), NTA (nitrolo triacetic acid) and sodium hexametaphosphate.

Ion exchange method or zeolite process – Zeolites are hydrated silicates of sodium and aluminium. Hard water is made to percolate through the zeolite. In the chemical ion exchange reaction that takes place, any hardness is almost totally removed. Ion exchange units are available as attachments that can be fitted into the plumbing system at the point where the water supply enters the hotel.

Organic base exchange method - Organic base exchangers are synthetic resins containing the sulphonic and carboxylic acid groups. When hard water is passed through these resins, the acids react with the calcium and the magnesium salts to produce products which are non reactive. When the last two methods are used in succession, they yield very soft, pure.

DETERGENTS : -

These are cleaning agents that, when used in conjuction with water, loosen and remove dirt and then hold it in suspension so that the dirt is not re deposited on the cleaned surface. They can be of two types – soapy detergents and synthetic detergents (nn soapy). The three basic properties of a good detergent are :

1. Good wetting power – to lower the surface tension of water and enable the surface of the article to be thoroughly wet.

2. Good emulsifying power – to break up the grease and enable the dirt to be loosened.

3. Good suspending power – to suspend the dirt in the solution, thus preventing its re-deposition.

Composition and action of detergents

All detergents are primarily composed of three parts.

Active ingredients : - In soapy detergents, the active ingredient is obtained from natural oils and fats. These are composed of long fatty acid chains. The fatty acids commonly found in nature are the palmatic, stearic, oleic, and linoleic acids. These fatty acids occur in nature as triglicerides. The active ingredients in synthetic detergents are the surface active agents or surfactants obtained from petrochemicals. Surfactants are of four types. They are summarized in table 7.3.

Anionic Cationic Amphoteric Non ionic

Ionize in water Ionize in water Contain both positive Do not ionize

carrying a carrying a positive and negative charge in water

negative charge charge on the groups in the molecule

on the hydrophobic hydrophobic part

part of the molecule of the molecule

Good wetting power Very weak clean- Used to impart soften- Have good

sing power, so ess and as dye fixer. emulsifying

never used alone. Powers.

Used to impart

softness and

counteract anionic

detergents in com-

bination.

Limited suspendi- Blended with non- Have some germicid- Donot lather

ng power Lather ionics to give anti- dal properties as well as

very well. static and sanitizing anionic

properties. surfactants

Constitute about Used in fabric soft- Used in fabric softe- Used in low

20% of most eners, water repell- ners, dye fixin agents foaming det-

detergents. ents, and sanitizers. and other textile ergents, ideal

Include soaps Include quaternary textile auxillaries for use in

alkyl aryl sulph- ammonium comp- scrubbing

onates such as unds. machines

alkyl benzene They constit-

sulphonate, most ute about 6-

widely used 12% of liquid

surfactants synthetic det-

ergents and

about 2% of

most powde-

red detergent

Anionic detergents Cationic detergents Amphoteric deterg- Non-ionic

account for 80% used as neutral dete- ents are neutral detergents

of neutral synthet- rgent sanitizers in They are expensive are also used

ic detergents-wash- hospitals and food and are incorporated as neutral

ing powder, fluids, preparation areas. into speciality form- detergents.

floor cleaners and They donot have ulations such as They should

carpet shampoos. any smell.They are metal cleaners and be used in

pH is 7-9 also used in dusting oven cleaners in solutions

solutions. pH is of the stren-

below 7 gth recom-

. mended by

the manuf-

acturer.

Various builders used in detergents Table 7.4

Inorganic builders Purpose Organic builders Purpose

Sodium sulphate Acts as an inert CMC(carboxyl- Mainly helps in

filler, making methylcellulose) improving the sus-

expense low pending power of

Gives the powder of detergents. Acts

free flowing as a thickening age-

properties ent. SCMC(sodium

Improves foam carboxymethyl

formation. cellulose) is espec-

effective on cotton.

Ethyl hydroxyethyl

cellulose is effecti-

on synthetics.

Phosphates Soften water. PVP(polyvinyl Prevents redpositi-

Eg. di & trisodium Act as sequestering pyrrolidone) on.

phosphates agents. Chloridated

phosphate has ble-

aching properties.

Silicates Enhance the deter- Tetra acetyl Used as new blea-

Eg.sodium sesquis- gency of the dete- ethylene di- ching agent beca-

ilicate by softening water amine use of the need

acting as buffers for high tempera-

emulsifying grease tures for other

and helping in the agents.

suspending action.

Sodium silicate

prevents corrosion

of aluminium in

the body of wash-

ing machines.

Carbonates Sodium carbonate

Eg. sodium carbo- acts as an alkaline

nate & bicarbonate builder; cheap

source of alkalinity

It also is a good

absorbent as it

absorbs large qua-

ntities of liquid on

its surface and still

remains dry. Softens

water. Sodium bica-

rbonate lowers the

pH of the products.

Sodium perborate On dissolving water

liberates hydrogen

peroxide which is a

bleaching agent.

Effective at temper-

atures 85-100 degrees.

Helps remove stains

such as those of tea

and coffee.

Borax(sodium Acts at low pH as a

tetraborate) water softener. In

pentahydrate form

helps improve the free-

flowing property of

powders.

Sodium chloride Helps increase visco-

sity of an anionic

detergent. Enhances

detergency property

especially in case of

blood stained fabrics

and of woolens. Acts

as a bulk filler.

Magnesium sulph- Accts as a stabilizer

ate for sodium perborate.

Helps eliminate stickiness

in powders using alkyl

benzene sulphonate.

Builders – These give bulk to the detergent. A builder is a compound that has no surface active properties but increases the efficiency of the detergent. They are added to facilitate better handling and dilution. In case of liquid detergents, the diluents can be water; in case of powders, sodium sulphate is used. Builders can be inorganic or organic. The various types of builders are summarized table 7.4.

Additives- added to the detergent, these may be bleaching agents, blueing agents, fluorescent brighteners, enzymes, and so on. Optical brighteners or fluorescent brighteners help counteract the yellowing of fabrics that occurs with age. They are compounds that absorb ultraviolet light and reflect it back as blue light, creating an illusion of whiteness. Photo-activated bleaches, on the other hand, have an action that is chemical and not physical. They convert oxygen to nascent form when activated by sun light. Chelating agents are compounds capable of binding the mineral salts that make water hard. EDTA (ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid) and NTA (nitrilo triacetic acid) are chelating agents used in small amounts in detergents. They chelate calcium and magnesium salts.DTPA (diethyl triamine penta acetic acid) is used to chealte iron salts. Zeolites are also being used in some detergents. Hydrothropes help when, due to the presence of inorganic salts, the solubility of the liquid detergent decreases. Hydrothropes help to keep all the materials in solution. Enzymes such as proteases, lipases and amylases are incorporated in detergents to attack stains of different kinds. Advanced research has led to the development of enzymes that are stable up to temperatures of 60o C and a pH of 10.5-11. Their action is very slow and therefore they require a soaking time of 30 minutes or so. Perfumes are added to cover up the unpleasant smell of some synthetic detergents. Dyes, usually blue and green, are used to colour powdered detergents and make the product more attractive. Ground pumice is added to detergents to create a coarse texture so that stubborn dirt may be removed due to friction.

How detergents work

It is the surface active agents or surfactants in the detergent that are responsible for the three basic properties of detergents. Each molecule of the surfactant has a hydrophilic(wave loving) head and a hydrophobic (water heating), oleophilic (grease loving) tail. In other words, the hydrophilic head is attracted to water, whereas the hydrophobic tail is attracted by grease and repelled by water. When the detergent is added to water, the following actions take place:

Wetting action - The detergent lowers the surface tension of the water. The surfactant molecules tend to arrange themselves at the water-air interface. The hydrophobic tails of the surfactant molecules are repelled by water, creating a pull in the opposite direction to that of the inward pull of the water molecules .

Emulsifying action – The hydrophobic tails of the surfactant molecules are also oleophic in nature, that is they are attracted to grease. The tails thus penetrate the grease and lift off the fabric surface. The dirt also gets lifted away as it is entrapped in the grease.

Suspending action – Since the grease molecules are entrapped by the surfactant molecules, their contact with other surfaces is prevented. The grease (with the embedded dirt) is thus held in a stable emulsion in the water. This is also partly due to the fact that the hydrophilic heads at the other end from the grease molecules are attracted to water. Most of the surfactants now carry a mild charge, that is, they ionize and repel each other. This also aids in the suspending power of the detergent.

Figure 7.9 shows the role of surfactants in removing dirt from a surface.

Types of detergents

Various types of detergents are available for use in different areas and on different surfaces. Figure 7.10 summarises various types of detergents.

Soapy detergents/soaps – These are obtained when fat/oil is treated with an alkali. The process is called as saponification Soaps are relatively inexpensive. Soaps are effective only in soft water; in hard water they form a scum that is difficult to rinse away. Detergents from this category used in housekeeping are :

1. Toilet soaps – They are used in different kinds of packaging for guest rooms and cloakrooms. They contain perfume, dye stuffs, and antioxidants such as vitamin E. they donot contain any builders.

2. Soap powders – They dissolve rapidly in water and lather well, and comprise up to 40% of builders.

3. Soap flakes – The simplest form of all detergents, they dissolve easily and are used for delicate fabrics washed at lower temperatures.

Synthetic detergents – These are soap free and havr replaced the use of soaps in many cleaning processes. They are not affected by hard water and have good suspending powers. Based on their chemical nature, they may be neutral detergents (anionic, non ionic, cationic or amphoteric) or alkaline detergents as we have seen above. Alkaline detergents are used in the housekeeping departments, as they are very strong detergents, ideal for removing grease. They have a pH of 9-12.5. Though they do not foam much, they require thorough rinsing because of their slippery nature in solution. They will also patch the cleaned surface if not rinsed well. They are used on heavily soiled surfaces and for removing water-based floor polishes. Since they have such a high pH, they are harmful to the skin and therefore the staff must take special precautions while using them. However, the various categories of synthetic detergent in common use in housekeeping are:

Detergents


Soapy detergents Synthetic detergents

Toilet soaps Liquid synthetic detergents

Soap powders Powdered synthetic detergents

Soap flakes Solvent based detergents

Biological detergents

Disinfectant detergents

1. Liquid synthetic detergents – These are light duty detergents for hard surfaces and lightly soil fabrics. They contain 20% anionic surfactants and 6-12% non-ionic surfactants. They are neutral in reaction with pH 7.0

2. Powdered synthetic detergents – These are heavy duty detergents suitable for heavily soiled fabrics. They contain 20% anionic surfactants, 2% non ionic surfactants, about 33% alkaline builders, 9% bleach, 20% fillers, SCMC (sodium carboxyl methyl cellulose), brighteners and 15%water

3. Solvent based detergents – These contain water miscible solvents, builders, and anionic solvents. Their pH is 12 and they are used for stripping spirit based wax floor polishes. They are used for cleaning areas with a heavy accumulation of grease, as in the kitchen and on machinery.

4. Biological detergents - These are powdered detergents to which enzymes have been added, They are used to remove organic stains at a temperature of 40-50o C.

5. Disinfecting detergents – These are based on cationic surfactants, mainly ‘quats’ (quaternary ammonium compounds). They have good germicidal and antistatic properties. They are available as cleaning gels, air fresheners, and fabric conditioners. They may be used on floors, walls, equipment and areas that come into contact with the food.

The ideal detergent

Different types if detergents are used according to their suitability in cleaning various surfaces. However, the selection of detergents should be based on certain criteria to ensure that the optimal detergent ids bought and the housekeeper gets value for money. An is]deal detergent should - -

- Have good wetting, emulsifying powers.

- Readily dissolve in water

- Cleanse quickly with minimum agitation

- Be effective in all ranges of hard water, without producing scum

- Be effective over a wide range of temperatures.

- Be harmless to the skin and the surface to be cleaned

- Be easy to rinse away ; and

- Be biodegradable

Various ‘all purpose detergents’ are now available that combine most of the above qualities. However, buying the very best detergent will be of no use if the staff are not trained to use them in the correct way. Certain points to consider when using detergents are listed below :

- Dilute as per the manufacturer’s recommendations, using the measuring scoops and dispensers provided.

- Use the right detergent for the surface to be cleaned.

- Use protective gloves when using strong detergents.

- Dissolve the detergent thoroughly before use.

- Rinse away all traces of detergent from the surface and any cleaning equipment employed.

- Label detergent containers neatly.

- Store detergent containers in a dry, well-ventilated storage area.

- Wipe up any spilled detergent, as it may be a safety hazard.

ABRASIVES : -

These are substances or chemicals that depend on their rubbing or scratching action to clean dirt and grit from hard surfaces. They are used to remove very stubborn stains on various surfaces.

Types of abrasives

Based on the classification of hardness for various substances shown in fig.7.11, abrasives are classified as :


1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Talc Calcite Feldspar Diamond

Fig. 7.11 Scale of hardness

Fine abrasives – These include precipitated whiting (filtered chalk) and jeweler’s rouge (a pink oxide of iron) used for shining silver. They are also constituents of commercial silver polishes.

Medium abrasives – These include rotten stone, salt, scouring powder and scouring paste. Scouring powders are made up of fine particles of pumice mixed with a soap/detergent, an alkali and a little bleach.

Hard/coarse abrasives – These include bath bricks, sand paper, pumice, steel wool and emery paper.

Glass paper, calcite, sand paper, fine ash, emery powder and paper, jeweler’s rouge, powdered pumice, precipitated whiting (filtered chalk), feldspar, ground limestone, sand, carborundum, steel wool and nylon scourers are some commonly used abrasives.

Surface

Abrasive

Brass

Ceramics

Abrade with emery.

Abrade with carborundum and water.

Copper

Abrade with emer.

Glass

Abrade with carborundum.

Gold

Abrade with fine emery.

Lead, tin

Leather

Abrade with fine emery.

Degrease with care and abrade with glass paper.

Silver

Abrade with fine emery.

Steel, iron

Stone

Wood

Abrade with emery.

Abrade with wire brush.

Abrade with fine glass paper or fine wool.

Abrasives are usually not used alone in cleaning agents. For example, cream or paste meant for cleaning utensils contains about 80% of finely ground limestone, along with other substances such as bleachers, anionic surfactants, alkaline builders and perfumes. The use of various abrasive agents for cleaning different surfaces is summarized in table 7.5

REAGENTS : -

These bring about cleaning by a chemical reaction requiring a distinctly low or high pH. They thus include acids and alkalis that aid in the cleaning process. To understand the action of acids and alkalis one must have knowledge of the term pH. pH is a measurement of the level of acid or an alkali in a solution or a substance. In the pH range of 0 – 14 a reading below 7 shows an acid and one above 7 shows an alkali. A pH scale is shown in fig. 7.12.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

Acidic Neutral Alkaline

Types of reagents

Reagents may be acids or alkalis.

Acids used as cleaning agents may vary from mild acids (such as acetic acid) with a pH of 3 to strong acids( such as dilute or concentrated hydrochloric acid )with a pH of 1. Mildly acidic substances used commonly in cleaning include lime, tamarind and buttermilk. Acids may be used in solution alone or may be a part of some special formulations, as in toilet cleaners. Housekeeping staff need to be trained in the safe handling of strong acids, as they are highly corrosive. They literally eat away dirt. Rubber gloves should always be used while handling them. They should be used in very small quantities as they emit toxic fumes as well. Strong acids should be thoroughly rinsed away after the cleaning process. Table 7.6 summarizes the use of different acids in cleaning.

Acids and their use in cleaning

Acid

pH

Uses

Concentrated HCL (once referred to as ‘spirits of salt’)

1

Removing stubborn hard water deposits.

Dilute HCL

1

Removing stubborn scales and deposits from sanitary ware.

Oxalic acid

2

Removing stubborn hard water deposits.

Acetic acid

3

Removing tarnish and stains from metals such as copper and brass(the acid must be washed off quickly). Neutralizing alkalis used in cleaning. Preventing colours from running during washing.

Sodium acid sulphate

5

Removing hard water deposits and scales from toilets.

Alkalis are used as cleaning agents in the form of liquids and powders. They are particularly useful in the laundry. Very strong alkalis should be used with the utmost caution as they are corrosive and toxic. These are called caustic alkalis. Many alkalis act as bleaches. Caustic soda based cleaning agents are used to clear blocked drains and to clean ovens and other industrial equipment. Ammonia is a strong grease emulsifier and should also be carefully used as it emits strong fumes. It is also added to abrasive formulations. Toilet cleaners to which bleach has been added are very effective. It should be kept in mind that sodium chlorite bleach should never be used with an acidic toilet cleaner, however, as it will release toxic chlorine gas. The use of alkalis in cleaning is summarized in table 7.7.

Acid

pH

Uses

Sodium hydroxide(caustic soda)

14

Removing stubborn grease from ovens and equipment. Clearing blocked drains.

Ammonia

11

Removing stubborn grease.

Sodium carbonate(washing soda)

10

Used as an alkaline builder in synthetic and soapy detergents. Clearing blocked drains.

Sodium perborate

10

Removing stains and whitening due to bleaching action at higher temperatures (above 40o)

Sodium hypochlorite

9

Removing stains and whitening due to bleaching action on various types of surfaces.

Acts as disinfectant.

Sodium bicarbonate(baking soda)

8

Removing stubborn grease from smooth, delicate surfaces.

Removing stains such as tea,coffee and fruit juice.

Sodium pyroborate

(borax)

Sodium thiosulphite

8

7

Same as above.

Removing iodine stains.

Organic solvents:

Grease is soluble in organic solvents such as tetrachloride, acetone, turpentine, & methylated spirit. Thus, these organic solvents are used extensively in the removal of grease, dry-cleaning of fabrics, & stain removal. Solvents are also useful in cleaning surfaces that may be harmed by water. Organic solvents evaporate rapidly from a surface & are therefore ideal for cleaning glass surfaces such as mirrors & windows.

Disinfectants & bleaches:

Disinfectants aid in the cleaning process by bringing about varying ranges of microbial control. The term ‘disinfectant’ is now used as a general term that covers all kinds of agents that bring about germ control. Most disinfectants have a strong smell & therefore should be used only in recommended amounts in areas where germ control is required.

Varying ranges of microbial control:

Microbial control

Action

· Disinfection

· Bactericidal

· Bacteriostatic

· Antiseptic

· Sanitation

· Sterilization

Killing most microbes , but not their spores

Killing most bacteria, but not their spores

Making the environment non-conducive for the growth & reproduction of bacteria.

Making the environment non-conducive for the growth & reproduction of disease causing (pathogenic) microbes.

Reducing the microbial count to an acceptable level.

Killing all kinds of microbes as well as their spores.

Type of disinfectants:

Disinfectants can be categorized in terms of their chemical action and composition:

Phenols: These are hydroxyl derivatives of the aromatic hydrocarbon benzene. They are used in dilute or high concentrations to disinfect surfaces in hospitals especially. In hotels, diluted phenols are used with their sharp smell masked by other additives.

Halogens: The elements chlorine & iodine may be used as disinfectants. Chlorine is used both as bleach & as a disinfectant on many surfaces. Iodine is not often used to disinfect surfaces because it tends to leave brown stains.

Quaternary ammonium compounds (‘quats’): these are cationic surfactants useful as bacteriocides.

Natural pine oils: pine oils are obtained from pine trees. They are germicidal to some extent, but are mainly added to cleaning formulations for their pleasant smell.

Guidelines for using disinfectants

Certain points to consider while using disinfectants are given below:

· Clean the surface first with detergent & rinse with soft water only.

· Rinse away the detergent solution thoroughly before using a disinfectant on the surface.

· Use the correct disinfectant for the range of disinfection required.

· Use the disinfectant at the correct dilution for it to be effective. Different surfaces may require different dilutions of the same disinfectant.

· Allow the recommended time for the disinfectant to act.

Bleaches used in cleaning of hard surfaces are stabilized solutions with a high pH. The alkali sodium hypochlorite acts as powerful bleach & is used on WCs & sinks for the removal of stain.

Glass cleaners:

These are composed of an organic, water-miscible solvent such as isopropyl alcohol & an alkaline detergent. Some glass cleaners also contain a fine, mild abrasive. Most glass cleaners are available as sprays or liquids. They are sprayed directly onto windows, mirrors, & other glass surfaces or applied on with a soft cloth & rubbed off using a soft, lint free duster. A glass cloth is ideal for the purpose. Soft water to which some methylated spirit or vinegar is added is an inexpensive glass cleaner that can be readily made in the housekeeping department.

Deodorizers:

Deodorizers aid in the cleaning process by counteracting stale odors & sometimes also introducing a fragrance to mask them. They are used in restrooms, guestrooms, guest bathrooms, cloakrooms, & public areas such as lobbies. Some deodorizers leave no trace of a perfume cover-up. They are usually available as aerosols sprays, liquids, powders & crystalline blocks. The crystalline blocks are effervescent & manufactured using the principal of time- released aromatic chemicals. Naphthalene balls also serve as effective deodorizers. If thorough cleaning & good ventilation are provided, money need not be spent on expensive deodorants.

Toilet cleaners:

These are strong, concentrated cleaning agents designed to clean & disinfect WCs & urinals. They are available in liquid, powder & crystalline forms. They are acidic in nature as their main function is to remove stubborn stains & lime scale. They all contain some form of disinfectant.

Liquid toilet cleaners: These contain dilute hydrochloric acid, bleach, & pine oil. Adequate protective gear should be worn by the user while using such a toilet cleaner.

Crystalline toilet cleaners: These contain sodium acid sulphate, anionic surfactant & pine oil.

Powdered toilet cleaners: These cleaners contain a soluble acidic powder, chlorinated bleach, a fine abrasive & an effervescing agent to help the active ingredient spread in water.

Whatever form of toilet cleaner used, they should never be mixed with other cleaning agents since harmful gases may be produced in the resulting reaction.

Polishes:

These chemicals produce a shine by providing a smooth surface from which light is reflected evenly. Polishes are primarily applied to form a hard, protective layer & thus guard against finger marks, stains & scratches. They also create attractive sheen on the hard surface.

Classification of polishes:

Polishes are used on metal, furniture, & flooring & are classified according to the type of surface they are used on. On metals, they also smooth out any unevenness on the surface of the article and in case of flooring & furniture, they provide a smooth protective layer.

Metal polishes: These remove the superficial tarnish that forms on metal surfaces due to the attack of certain compounds in the air & some foodstuffs. These polishes also eliminate any scratches on the metal. They consist mainly of a very fine, mild abrasive, generally either precipitated whiting or jeweler’s rogue. Most polishes also contain a fatty acid, a solvent & water. On buffing, they remove tarnish & produce a shine. In hotels, hard surfaces where metal polishes are used include door-plates & handles, foot rails in bars, staircase banisters, ashtrays, bathroom fittings, tableware & cutlery. In metal polishes such as Brasso & silvo, the grease solvent or acid mixed with the abrasive powder aids in the removal of tarnish. Long term polishes contain some ingredients that coat the surface of the metal & retard the process of tarnishing in future. Metal polishes are available in the form of milky or clear liquids & of powders. Care should be taken in applying the correct polish as polishes meant for hard metals may damage the surface of soft metals. Because of their solvent content, metal polishes have a strong smell & should be used in well-ventilated room to let fumes dissipate. The container should be closed immediately after pouring out the polish into the polishing tray. If not, the solvent in the polish will evaporate, rendering it ineffective.

Certain recommendations on the use of metal polishes are given below:

· Cover the surrounding area with the newspaper or protective sheets.

· Carry out any polishing work in a well- ventilated room.

· Use an appropriate polish applicator or disposable rags.

· Use cocktail stick covered with rag to apply polish in narrow, hard –to-reach nooks & corners.

· Remove polish with cotton or a soft, dry cloth.

· Buff the polish with rags & dusters, preferably with ones with a napped surface.

· Wash any polished cutlery in warm detergent solution before use.

· Leave the area & equipment clean & tidy after polishing work is complete. Dispose off rags & newspapers used.

Classification of polishes:

Furniture polishes:

These contain wax or resin, a solvent, water & silicone. The wax or resin helps to keep the furniture surface supple. It also protects against abrasion & absorption of stains & spills. The main role of wax, however, is to provide a smooth surface from which the light is reflected evenly, producing an attractive sheen. The types of waxes commonly used are carnauba, beeswax, ozokerite, and paraffin wax. The solvent and water are meant to remove grease stains and water-soluble stains, respectively. Silicone is used to make the polish easier to apply. It also gives an added gloss and improves resistance to moisture, heat, dust and smears. Silicones thus give a harder and longer-lasting finish. Furniture polish needs to be applied frequently only in the case of untreated, unvarnished wood. Painted and varnished furniture should not be varnished too often. Most pieces of furniture manufactured these days are polished with a permanent synthetic resin and thus do not require further application of polish. As a preventive maintenance activity, they can be buffed regularly with a duster during dusting. As seen in figure 1 furniture polishes are available in various forms, differing in their wax contents.

Paste polishes These have a higher percentage of wax (25-30 percent). They may or may not contain silicones. They are ideal for use on antique wooden furniture. Pastes should be applied in small amounts buffed for a long time to get the desired result, and care should be taken to remove all traces of excess polish from the carved areas afterwards,

Cream polishes These have a high percentage of solvent. They contain light-colored waxes. Creams need to be used on furniture with a gloss finish only as they gradually increase the shine after continual use on the surface. Because of the higher solvent content, they have a strong smell and should be used in a well-ventilated room to let the fumes they exude dissipate completely. They are applied with a dry or damp rag and the surface polished up immediately with a dry duster.

Liquid polishes These too have a high percentage of solvents. They contain about8-12 percent wax. In addition, they may also contain a dye that can mask scratches on the surface of varnished furniture. They are used on glossy finishes to remove grease marks and other stains. They should be applied with a dry rag and buffed up with a soft, dry cloth while still moist to produce a good sheen.

Spray-on polishes these contain about 8 percent wax and a high amount of silicone. Spray contains aerosols to make their application simpler. These polishes clean as well as polish, and pre-dusting of the surface is not required. They are ideal for use on non-porous surfaces such as glass, chromium, plastic, and varnished or gloss-painted wood. They produce the static electricity on the surface so that dust is not attracted readily. The ideal way to apply a spray polish is to first spray it on the duster and then rub this on the surface. This minimizes wastage, an important consideration for these polishes especially, as they are expensive.

Certain points should be kept in mind while working with furniture polishes;

· Apply the polish on the clean surface

· Use the least quantity required to accomplish a good polishing of the surface; else it may result in stickiness that will attract more dust.

· Use soft, disposable rags for applying polish to the surface, except in the case of a spray-on polish.

· Always keep the polish container closed when not in use, else the solvent will evaporate and polish will dry out.

· Use polishes undiluted, unless it is specified otherwise by the manufacturer.

· Be careful while using polishes with a high solvent content since they are flammable.

Floor polishes:

These have a two-fold function. They not only lend an attractive sheen to the surface, but also provide a protective coat on it. Floor polishes should not be applied too frequently. They should be used only when simple buffing does not produce the desired sheen on the floor. The main aim in using floor polishes is to deposit a layer of wax on the surface. Therefore they are also referred to as floor waxes. The right kind of polish should be used along with the right equipment. Polish applicator mops should be labeled neatly with the kind of polish they are each used for to avoid mixing of products. The wrong polish may easily damage a floor surface and mar its appearance. The two basic types of floor polishes are spirit/solvent based and water-based floor polishes. A special group of floor polish called high speed emulsion polish is also discussed below.

Spirit/solvent-based polishes this kind of polish may be in the form of a liquid or a paste. They contain a blend of waxes and silicone dispersed in a solvent (a white spirit or Freon).) The waxes used may be natural (carnauba or ozokerite or synthetic (polyethylene). After the polish has been applied to the floor, the solvent evaporates and the wax left behind is buffed up using a polishing machine. The silicone helps in easy application of the polish and gives a more lasting finish. Additives such as perfumes and dyes are also added to solvent-based polishes. Solvent-based polish is used on porous floors such as wood, wood composition, cork magnesite and linoleum.

Water-based polishes These are available in the form of creamy liquid emulsion containing a blend of natural (carauba and montan) and synthetic waxes suspended in water by means of an emulsifying agent (ammonia or a synthetic detergent). They account for 80-85 percent of all floor polishes manufactured. After the polish has been applied to the floor, the water evaporates and the wax is deposited on the surface in a hard film. Colloidal silicon is sometimes added to water-based polishes as an anti-slip agent. Plasticizers and either alkali-soluble resins or metal-complexed polymers are also added. Plasticizers aid in the easy application of polish. Alkali-soluble resins are meant to provide weak break points in the water-based polish to facilitate cleaning with alkaline detergent solutions. The metal in the metal-complexed polymers shields the break points against the penetration detergent solutions. Usually only occasional buffing is required for these polishes. They are therefore also referred to as dry-bright polishes. Often these polishes are made into liquid sprays by addition of high amounts of emulsifying agents. The polish is then sprayed on and buffed immediately. Water-based polishes may be fully buffable (containing 45-60 percent wax and 20-40 percent polymers), semi-buffable (containing 25-40 percent wax and 45-60 percent polymers), or dry bright (containing 5-15 percent wax and 50-70 percent polymers). The amount of wax determines the amount of waxing required to achieve a desirable amount of shine. These polishes are not meant for porous surfaces, as water will damage them. Water-based polishes are used on porous floors only when they have been sealed properly. These polishes are used mainly on semi-porous surfaces such as thermoplastics, PVC, rubber, asphalt, terrazzo, marble, and natural materials such as Cuddapah tiles and so on.

Some guidelines on the use of floor polishes are given below:

· Use an appropriate sign to warn people walking along that area of the fact that floor polishing is being carried out.

· Ventilate the area well before starting.

· Apply the polish to clean, dry floor.

· Rinse the floor thoroughly using a neutralizing agent such as diluted vinegar after stripping the old polish.

· Apply several thin coats of polish rather than few thick coats.

· Work systematically to ensure that all the areas are covered.

· Allow sufficient drying time before applying the second coating.

· Buff thoroughly to reduce the slipping hazard.

· Remove any extra build-up of polish with an appropriate abrasive pad.

· Leave all polishing equipment clean and store them properly

Leather polishes These contain a special blend of waxes, a spirit solvent, and occasionally a dye. They are available in the form of creams and liquids. They help keep the leather supple and impart sheen to it. They also prevent deterioration of old leather articles.

Some do-it-yourself polishes

Some methods of making do-it-yourself (DIY) polishes are presented in the tables. When unsure about applying polish to a surface, first apply it on a small area not in view.

Floor sealers

These are applied to flooring surfaces as a semi-permanent finish that acts as a protective barrier by preventing the entry of dirt, girt, liquids, stains, grease, and bacteria. They prevent scratching and provide an easily maintainable surface. The right type of seal should be applied to each type of floor for effective protection and an attractive appearance. According to their functions, floor sealers can be finishing, protective, or a combination of both.

Furniture polish for dark wood: furniture polish for all types of wood:

Ingredients

Amount

turpentine

methylated spirit

linseed oil

vinegar

2 parts

1 part

2 parts

1 part

Method: combine all ingredients in a bowl and shake well to form an emulsion

Ingredients

Amount

Beeswax

Turpentine

25 g

25 ml

Method: heat the beeswax on a moderate flame till it melts. Remove from flame, add turpentine and stir well till the mixture is cool.

Furniture polish for light colored wood:

Ingredients

Amount

white wax

petrol

1 part

2 parts

Method: break the wax into small bits and put in a lidded can. Add petrol and shake well till it becomes creamy

Cream polish for leather and wooden furniture:

Ingredients

Amount

Soap (shredded)

Water

Beeswax( shredded)

White wax(shredded)

turpentine

1 tbsp

1 cup

2 tbsp

1 tbsp

1 cup

Method: place the beeswax and white wax into a bowl. Mix in turpentine so that the waxes are submerged in it. Heat the mixture over a water bath till the waxes dissolve. Combine the contents of the two bowls. Beat the mixture to a creamy consistency. Store in wide-mouthed bottles

They are also grouped as permeable, semi-permeable and impermeable, according to their penetrability vis-à-vis water. Permeable seals can be used on wood, cork, stone( except slate), and magnetite floors. Impermeable seals should be avoided on these floors as moisture naturally found within these floors will then get entrapped and may cause disintegration of the flooring. Impermeable seals may be used on PVCs, thermoplastic tiles, and rubber floors.

Sealers may be reinforced by the application of floor waxes. Floor sealing should always be done on a clean and dry surface. Most sealers require a hardening time of 12-16 hours and 2-3 coats are recommended

Types of floor sealers

There are six main types of floor sealers, depending on their composition.

Oleo-resinous sealers these are clear, solvent-based sealers used on wood, wood-composition, cork and magnetite floors. That consists of oils, resins, solvents, and driers. They not only impart an attractive surface gloss, but also penetrate the floor, darkening the colour and highlighting the grain of wood floors. They are comparatively cheaper than other sealers.

One-pot plastic sealers these are also called one-can sealers. They are made up of synthetic materials. They impart a gloss to the floor surface but do not penetrate it. They are used on wood, wood-composition, cork, and magnetite floors. Polyurethanes can also be used on concrete the three types of one-pot plastic seals are:

1. Urea-formaldehyde resin with an acid catalyst.

2. Oil-modified polyurethane.

3. Moisture-cured polyurethane

Two-pot sealers this type of sealer is composed of a base such as urea-formaldehyde or polyurethane and an accelerator or hardener. The two components are kept separate until use, else a chemical reaction occurs between them and the mixture hardens in the can. Because of the separate components, the shelf life of these sealers is longer. The accelerator in itself has a shorter shelf life, however. The two components should be mixed in the recommended proportions; else the sealer will not harden and will result in a patchy finish. This type of sealer should be used in a well ventilated room as they smell strongly of solvent fumes. They may be used on wood, wood composition, cork, and magnetite floors.

Pigmented sealers as the name implies, these sealers contain color pigments, which, apart from providing color, also strengthen the sealer. They may be used on concrete, wood, wood-composition, magnesite floor, asphalt, and stone floors. There are two types available:

1. One-pot synthetic rubber

2. Two-pot polyurethane.

Water-based sealers these are composed of acrylic polymer resin and a plasticizer. The particles of the resin penetrate the pores on the floor surface to provide a plastic skin. These are less durable sealers and should be reinforced with a water-based floor wax. However, they can easily be touched up, removed, and renewed. They may be used on marble, terrazzo, magnesite, linoleum, rubber, thermoplastic tiles, PVCs, asphalt, concrete, stone and quarry tiles.

Silicate dressings these consist of a base of sodium silicate dissolved in water. This is not a true sealer. The sodium silicate reacts with the lime in concrete floors to form insoluble calcium silicate. The water acts as a carrier, and after it evaporates, silicate glass is formed. These simply reinforce concrete and stone floors, and prevent the accumulation of dust on their surface. Silicate dressings are much cheaper than sealers.

Selecting the right sealer

Most sealers are expensive. So a lot of thought should be put into buying the ideal seal for the particular flooring to get maximum durability and value for money. The following points need to be kept in mind while selecting floor sealers:

· The type of floor

· The amount of traffic in the area

· The availability of the floor for future sealing

· Good fixing or ‘keying’, durability, appearance and anti-slip qualities

· Ease of application, repair, removal, and renewal

· Odor and fumes

· Drying time

· Shelf life

· Cost-effectiveness

Applying floor sealers

Whichever type of floor sealer is chosen, the following recommendations should be followed while applying floor sealers

· Use appropriate signs to warn passer-bys that sealing is being carried out, else it may be a safety hazard

· Ensure the floor surface is clean, chemically neutral and dry before applying the sealer. Otherwise the seal will not ‘key’ to the surface

· Maintain an ideal room temperature of 21oC

· Keep the room well ventilated

· Protect the area from flies and pests until the sealer is dry

· Keep on hand only the required amount of sealer and store the rest tightly lidded, else the whole bulk may deteriote

· Apply several thin coats rather than a few thick ones

· Allow the recommended drying time between coats.

· Clean & store all equipment, such as sealer applicators, neatly after use.

Floor strippers:

These are used to remove a worn-out floor finish so that a new sealer or polish can be applied. Most are based on ammonia & the other is a non- ammoniated product. Ammonia has an intense odor & therefore the area treated should be well ventilated for many days to get rid of the smell. Alkaline detergents with a high pH are also used as floor strippers. It should be kept in mind that any residual stripper solution needs to be rinsed away thoroughly with a mildly acidic rinse. The ideal way is to add vinegar to the last rinse of water.

Carpet cleaners:

These are composed of neutral water-soluble solvents, emulsifiers, de-foamers, soil repellents, sanitizers (occasionally), optical brighteners & deodorizers. They are available as sprays, powders, foams & liquid shampoos. Whichever type is selected, it is essential that they be used in the correct dilutions.

Some common cleaning agents

Some common cleaning agents used in professional housekeeping are as follows:

Ammonia: Liquid ammonia is a solution of ammonia gas in water, held as ammonium hydroxide. It is a strong alkali used for softening water, cleaning window panes & emulsifying grease.

Bath brick: This is a reddish- brown powder, also obtained in brick form. It is used for scouring & polishing metals such as brass & copper. In powdered form, it is used for cleaning earthenware.

Benzene: Obtained from the distillation of coal tar, benzene is used as a grease solvent & for removing paint & tar stains.

Borax: Chemically sodium borate, this white crystalline powder is used to soften hard water & to remove coffee & tea stains.

Bran: The husk of wheat grain, it is used in dry-cleaning as grease absorbent.

Fuller’s earth: This is ash- white clay that readily absorbs grease. It is used on colored wood surfaces.

Hydrochloric acid: this is corrosive & poisonous mineral acid, used diluted for removing stains in bathrooms.

Jeweler’s rogue: Chemically this is ferric tetroxide a pinkish powder used for polishing silver. It is constituent of commercial silver polishes too.

Lemon: Lemon is used for removing ink stains from wooden surfaces.

Linseed oil: This is obtained from crushed seeds of the flax plant. It is a constituent of furniture polishes & paints. It darkens unpainted wood slightly.

Magnesia: chemically magnesium carbonate, this fine white powder is used for dry- cleaning felt, fur & woolen articles.

Methylated spirits: This is used for cleaning window panes & mirrors to a shine. It is a constituent of varnishes & lacquers.

Oxalic acid: This is an organic acid used for the removal of stains from fabrics & bath fittings. It is also used for cleaning porcelain.

Paraffin oil: Not to be confused with paraffin wax, this liquid is a product of distillation of crude petroleum & is used for cleaning greasy iron & steel articles. It also cleans greasy earthenware when used in combination with bath brick.

Petrol: This too is obtained from petroleum distillation. It is highly inflammable & is used for dry cleaning & for removing grease stains.

Pumice: This is a light, porous rock of volcanic origin. It is used as an abrasive for hard metals, earthenware & enamel.

Rotten stone: This is a decomposed siliceous limestone & is used for cleaning copper, brass & earthenware.

Common salt: Chemically sodium chloride, this is used as a medium-grade abrasive. It is used for stiffening the bristles of brushes & stiff brooms. Salt is also added as a mordant while washing colored clothes. (A mordant is a substance that prevents undue loss of color while washing clothes)

Sand: This hard compound of silica is used as a hard abrasive on stone floors & hard coarse wood.

Sawdust: It acts as an abrasive & a grease absorber.

Shikakai: Sometimes called soap-nut or soap berry, but more accurately soap-pod (to distinguish from the fruit of reetha). This is used for non abrasive cleaning of tarnished metals.

Soda: It emulsifies grease &aids in the cleaning of dirty pans.

Steel wool: This is steel manufactured in to long filaments, in varying grades of fineness. It is used for scouring hard metals & dirty pans.

Turpentine: This is constituent of paints. It is also diluents for paints & removes tar stains.

Vaseline: this is obtained as a residue in petroleum distillation. It prevents rust formation on metals, acts as a lubricant & may be applied on leather to make it soft & supple.

Vinegar: Chemically this is 4% acetic acid. It is used to remove stains & tarnish from metals such as copper. It is also effective in removing streaks from glass surfaces such as window panes & mirrors.

Whiting/ precipitated whiting: Chemically this is calcium carbonate in pure form. It is used as a mild abrasive on soft metals & in cleaning white-painted articles.

Selection of cleaning agents:

The use of cleaning agents is meant to save time, effort & money. If selected well, all the three objectives may be fulfilled. The following points need to be considered when selecting cleaning agents:

· The type of soilage

· The type of surface

· Odor

· Range of action or versatility

· Composition of the cleaning agent

· Ease of use, saving of effort & time

· Toxicity or side effects

· Shelf life

· Packaging volumes & quantities

· Cost effectiveness

Storage of cleaning agents:

Cleaning agents with a longer shelf life are usually bought in bulk because of the reduced costs that accure from the economies of scale. Other agents are bought & replenished periodically. Storage of cleaning agents is crucial & the various points to be kept in mind are mentioned below:

· Ensure that the storage racks are sturdy. Heavier containers must be kept on the bottom shelf.

· The store should be kept clean & well- ventilated at all times.

· Label all containers neatly with a waterproof marker.

· Ensure that the lids are tightly secured.

· When dispensing cleaning agents, use appropriate dispensers & measuring apparatus.

· Ensure that no residual deposits of cleaning agent are left around the rims of the containers.

· Avoid spillage; if a spill occurs, clean it up immediately.

· Follow a systematic procedure for rotating stocks.

· Organic solvents, strong reagents, polishes, & aerosol- based agents should be kept away from heat sources.

· Check stocks regularly. The format of a stores stock sheet is shown below:-

· The store should be kept locked when not in use.

Hotel snowflake

STORES STOCK SHEET Date:-


S no

Name of item

Unit

Stock in hand

Stock received

Total stock

Less issues

Book stock

Actual stock

Difference in stock

1.

All purpose detergent

500 ml bottles

2.

Mansion polish

1 litre tins

3.

Floor cleaner- soap oil

5 litre cans

4.

Air fresheners

20 blocks per carton

Signature of Housekeeper: Signature of storekeeper:

· Format of a stores stock sheet.

Sunday, October 11, 2009

CHAPTER VI: SANITATION AND HYGIENE


In the last chapter, we talked about professionalism in the kitchen. One of the most important ways of demonstrating professional pride is in the area of sanitation and hygiene. Pride in quality is reflected in your appearance and work habits. Even more important, poor sanitation can cost a lot of money. Poor food handling procedures can cause illness, unhappy customers and even fines and lawsuits. Increased food spoilage also raises food costs. Poor sanitation shows lack of respect for your customers, your fellow workers and for yourself.

Bacteria


Most food borne diseases are caused by bacteria, tiny one-celled organisms so small, they can only be seen under the microscope. Bacteria are everywhere, in the air, in water, in the ground, on our food, on our skin and even inside our bodies. There are several types of bacteria:

  1. Harmless Bacteria – Most bacteria fall into this category. They are neither helpful nor harmful. We are not concerned with them in food sanitation.

  1. Beneficial Bacteria – These bacteria are helpful to us. For example, many live in the intestinal tract, where they fight harmful bacteria, aid in the digestion of food and produce certain nutrients. In food production, bacteria make possible the manufacture of many foods, including cheese and yogurt.

  1. Undesirable Bacteria – These are the bacteria that are responsible for food spoilage. They cause souring, putrefying and decomposition. These bacteria may or may not cause diseases, but they have built in safety factors: they announce their presence by sour odors, sticky or slimy surfaces, and discoloration. As long as we use common sense and follow the rule:`when in doubt, throw it out’, we are relatively safe from bacteria.

We are concerned with these bacteria for two reasons:

  1. food spoilage costs money
  2. food spoilage is a sign of improper food handling & storage. This means the next type of bacteria is also present.

  1. Disease-causing bacteria – are also called pathogens. These are the bacteria that cause most food borne illnesses. Pathogens do not necessarily leave detectable odors or tastes in food. In other words, you can’t tell whether the


food is contaminated by smelling, tasting or looking at it. The only way to protect against pathogenic bacteria is by proper hygiene and sanitary food handling and storage techniques.

Bacteria Growth


Bacteria multiply by splitting into half. Conditions for growth include:

  1. Food – Bacteria require some kind of food in order to grow. They like many of the foods we do.
  2. Moisture - Bacteria require moisture in order to absorb food.
  3. Temperature – Bacteria grow best at warm temperatures. Temperatures between 45 and 140F (7 to 60C) will promote the growth of disease causing bacteria. This temperature range is called the Danger Zone.
  4. Acidity and Alkalinity – In general, disease causing bacteria prefer a neutral medium, neither too acidic or alkaline.
  5. Air – Most bacteria require oxygen to grow. These are called aerobic. Others are called anaerobic, which means they can only grow when no air is present, such as in metal cans. Botulism is one of the most dangerous forms of food poisoning caused by anaerobic bacteria.
  6. Time – When bacteria are introduced to a new environment, they need time to adjust to their new surroundings before they start multiplying. This time is called the lag phase.

Protection against Bacteria:


Because we know how and why bacteria grow, we should be able to keep them from multiplying. There are three basic principles of food protection against bacteria.

  1. Keep bacteria from spreading – Don’t let food touch anything that may contain disease-producing bacteria, and protect food from bacteria in the air.
  2. Stop bacteria from growing – Take away the conditions that encourage bacteria to grow. In the kitchen, our best weapon is temperature. The most effective way to prevent bacterial growth is to keep the food below 45F or above 140F (7C & 60C). These temperatures will not necessarily kill the bacteria but will at least slow down their growth considerably.
  3. Kill bacteria – Most disease causing bacteria are killed if they are subjected to temperatures above 170F(77C) for 30 seconds or higher temperatures for


shorter holding times. Certain chemicals also kill bacteria and can be used to sanitize equipment.

PERSONAL HYGIENE


We have understood the fact that most food borne disease is caused by bacteria. Now we can change that statement to read: most food borne disease is caused by bacteria spread by food workers. The first step in preventing food borne disease is good personal hygiene. Even when we are healthy, we have bacteria all over our skin and in our nose and in our mouth. Some guidelines to be followed in the kitchen include:

  1. Do not work with food if you have an infection or communicable diseases.

  1. Bathe or shower daily.

  1. Wear clean uniforms and aprons.

  1. Keep hair neat and clean – always use a cap while at work.

  1. Male workers should preferably be clean.

  1. Wash hands before you begin work and several times during work, including:

After eating and drinking

After using the toilet

After handling or touching anything that may be contaminated with

bacteria.

  1. Cover coughs and sneezes and then wash hands thoroughly.

  1. Keep hands away from your face, eyes, hair and arms.

  1. Keep fingernails clean and short. Do not wear nail polish and jewelry.

  1. Do not smoke or chew gum while on duty.

  1. Cover any cuts or wounds with clean bandages.

  1. Do not sit on worktables.

FOOD STORAGE


Proper food storage will eliminate contamination of foods and prevent the growth of bacteria already in the food.

Dry Food Storage:

Dry food storage pertains to those foods not likely to support bacterial growth in their normal state. These would include flour, grain, sugar, dals, pulses, salt, fats and oils, canned and bottled products. Store these types of foods in a cool dry place, off the floor away from the wall and not under a sewer line. Keep all containers tightly closed to protect them from insects, rodents and dust. Remember that dry foods can get contaminated even if they do not require refrigeration.

Freezer Storage:

All frozen food must be stored at 0F (-18C) or lower. All frozen food must be kept tightly wrapped or packed to prevent freezer burns. Label and date all items. Thaw frozen foods properly before use either in the refrigerator or in cold running water. The microwave oven could also be used to thaw food quickly. Do not thaw at room temperature because the surface temperature will go above 45F (7C) before the inside is thawed, resulting in bacterial growth.

Refrigerator Storage:

Keep all perishable foods below 45F (7C). Do not overcrowd refrigerators. Leave space between foods so that air can circulate. Keep refrigerator doors shut except when putting in or removing foodstuffs. Keep shelves and interiors of the refrigerator clean. Store raw and cooked food separately. Keep food covered properly in the refrigerator and in suitable containers.

vernon coelho

2009-10

ihm mumbai

CHAPTER IX: AIMS AND OBJECTIVES OF COOKING FOOD



  1. Cooking partly sterilizes food. Above 40C(140F) the growth of bacteria falls off rapidly and in general it ceases above 45C (113F). Non sporing bacteria are killed at temperatures above 60C (140F) for varying periods of time. For example, to make milk safe for consumption, it is pasteurized at 63C (145F) for 30 minutes or at 72C (161F) for 15 seconds. Boiling kills living cells with the exception of spores, within a few seconds. Spore bearing bacteria take about 4 to 5 hours of boiling to be destroyed. To destroy them in a shorter time, higher temperatures must be used.


  1. Cooking helps to make the food more digestible. Complex foods are often split into simpler substances during the cooking process. This helps the body to absorb and utilize the food more readily than in the raw form.


  1. Cooking increases the palatability of various dishes.


  1. Cooking makes the food more attractive in appearance and therefore more appetizing.


  1. Cooking introduces variety. Many different types of dishes can be prepared using the same ingredient.


  1. Cooking helps to provide a balanced meal. Different ingredients of different nutritive values combined together in one dish make it easier to provide a balanced meal.


vernon coelho

2009-2010

ihm mumbai

Thursday, October 8, 2009


CHAPTER XVI: SAUCES


Like stocks, sauces have lost some of their importance in the modern kitchen setup. The skill of the Chef Saucier was second to none and sauce making was and important and treasured art. Most of the decline could be attributed to the advent of convenience foods and the eating habits of people.

However, much of this change is due to misunderstandings. How many times have we heard people exclaim `I don’t want all these sauces, give me plain and simple food’ and then proceed to pour ketchup and chili sauce over everything from French fries to burgers and even pizzas!! This could also be attributed to poorly made sauces. No one likes thick and pasty sauces over their meat or vegetables or salty but otherwise tasteless sauces gumming up their meat and fish. But just because some chefs serve badly made sauces, there is no reason to reject all sauce cookery. In fact, good sauce making is the pinnacle of good cooking, both in the skill they require and the excitement and variety they create in the food. Very often the most memorable part of a meal is the excellent sauce that accompanied the meat or the fish. A sauce works like a seasoning. It enhances and accents the flavor of the food. It should not dominate, overpower or hide the food.

DEFINITION


A sauce is defined as a flavorful liquid, usually thickened, which is used to flavor, season and enhance other foods.

A sauce adds the following qualities to food:

  • moistness
  • Flavor
  • Richness
  • Appearance, color and shine
  • Interest and appetite appeal

CLASSIFICATION

Sauces can be classified as under:

  • Mother sauces/leading sauces
  • Derivative/secondary sauces
  • Emulsion sauces
  • Proprietary sauces
  • Dessert sauces
  • Miscellaneous sauces

THE STRUCTURE OF A SAUCE

Three kinds of ingredients make up the structure of a sauce.

  • A Liquid, which is the body of the sauce
  • A Thickening agent
  • Additional seasoning and flavoring agents

LIQUID

A liquid agent provides the base and the body of the sauce:

Milk for the Béchamel

Stock for the Veloute and Espagnole

Butter for the hollandaise

Oil for the Mayonnaise

THICKENING AGENTS

A sauce must be thick enough to cling lightly to the foods; otherwise it will run off and lie in a puddle at the bottom of the dish. This does not mean that it should be heavy and pasty either. Starches are the most common thickening agents used in sauces but there are others as well.

  • Roux : Cooked mixture of butter and flour
  • Beurre manie : uncooked mixture of butter and flour
  • Whitewash: blend of milk and flour
  • Slurry: blend of water and flour
  • Corn starch: blend of corn flour and water. Used when a clear glossy texture is required.
  • Arrowroot: used like cornstarch but gives an even clearer sauce.
  • Waxy maize: Used when sauce is to be frozen. Flour and other starches break down and lose their thickening power when they are frozen. Waxy Maize does not.
  • Breadcrumbs: Both fresh and dry will thicken sauces very quickly as they have already been cooked.
  • Egg Yolks: used as thickening in emulsion sauces such as mayonnaise and Hollandaise.
  • Egg Yolk and Cream Liaison: Thick cream also adds thickness and flavor to the sauce. Egg yolks have the power to thicken because of the coagulation of the protein present in the yolk, when heated. Besides thickening, the liaison also gives richness, flavor & smoothness to the sauce.

OTHER FLAVORING INGREDIENTS

In order to vary the basic sauce, other flavoring and seasoning ingredients are added to the sauce. They provide character to the finished sauce. This also makes it possible for sauces to accompany different dishes, as the different flavors will vary and complement a variety of tastes.

STANDARDS FOR QUALITY SAUCES


  1. Consistency & Body:

Most sauces should be smooth with no lumps. They should not be too thick and pasty. They must be thick enough to coat the foods lightly.

  1. Flavor:

The flavor of the sauce should be distinctive and well balanced. There must be a proper degree of seasoning with no starchy taste. The flavor should be selected to enhance or complement the food.

  1. Appearance:

The appearance should be smooth with a good shine and gloss. It should have the requisite color: rich brown for the espagnole, pale ivory for the veloute and white (not gray) for the béchamel.

MISCELLANEOUS SAUCES


These are sauces that do not fit into any of the above classifications. These include:

Mint Sauce for Roast lamb

Horse radish sauce for Roast Beef

Bread Sauce for Roast Chicken

Cranberry sauce for Roast Turkey

Apple sauce for Roast Pork

Raisin Sauce for Ham

Orange sauce for Roast duck

DESSERT SAUCES

These are sauces, which are served exclusively for desserts. These will include

  • Custard sauce for steamed and baked puddings
  • Jam Sauce for ice creams and sundaes
  • Chocolate sauce
  • Rum sauce
  • Brandy sauce
  • Melba sauce


Additional Reading for this topic:

  • The Complete Guide to the Art of Modern Cookery
  • A. Escoffier (page 1-41)
  • La Rousse Gastronomique
  • Harengs Dictionary of Classical and Modern Cookery

(page 35-58)

  • La Repertoire de la Cuisine














vernon coelho

ihm mumbai

2009-10



ASSIGNMENT



Now that you have learnt something about sauces, their structure and components, and their production, list down the following sauces in a chart form, mentioning the mother sauce and the additional ingredients used.

_________________________________________________________________

DERIVATIVE MOTHER ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

_________________________________________________________________

MORNAY

SOUBISE


MUSTARD


PARSLEY

CHEESE

AURORE

DUGLERE

CHAMPIGNON

VIN BLANC

BERCY (1)

BERCY(2)

CHASSEUR

BORDELAISE

LYONNAISE

CHARCUTIERE

ROBERT

MADERE

PERIGUEUX

CREOLE

PIQUANTE

PORTUGAISE

ITALIENNE

BARBEQUE


BEARNAISE

CHORON

FAYOT

CHANTILLY

PALOISE

MALTAISE

TARTARE

REMOULADE

COCKTAIL

GREEN GODDESS

TYROLEAN

THOUSAND ISLAND

SUPREME

NORMANDE

ALLEMANDE

VERONIQUE




CHAPTER XVI: SAUCES (CONTD) MAYONNAISE



Mayonnaise is a semi –solid emulsion of edible oils, egg yolks, vinegar (or lemon juice) and seasonings. Generally, commercially prepared mayonnaise contains not less than 50% vegetable oils and the sum of the oil and the egg yolk should not be less than 78%. Some products add starch pastes to aid in the emulsification and that do not otherwise comply with the standards of Mayonnaise are termed as salad dressings.

Preparation of Mayonnaise that will stand up well and not separate involves certain factors and techniques.

An emulsion is more readily achieved when all ingredients are at room temperature. Cold oil is difficult to break up into small fat globules that will ensure easy emulsification. Therefore it is recommended that the oil and the egg yolk be at room temperature.

Egg yolks are an efficient emulsifying agent because of their ability to hold additional fats. Fresh eggs are superior to older or stale eggs, for use in mayonnaise. Stale egg yolks have a weaker cell structure and thus are not able to hold the oil incorporated. Although older books and traditional recipes call for the use of salad oil or olive oil in the preparation of mayonnaise, modern chefs prefer the use of refined oil. This has a more neutral flavor and does not overpower the taste of the dish into which it is added. Any popular brand of oil may be used so long as it does not overpower the flavor of the sauce.

Egg yolk and oil are beaten together in the initial preparation step, prior to the addition of oil. Rapid and thorough beating of the eggs and oils in the beginning is one of the most important factors in producing the initial emulsion. The method of adding the oil is a deciding factor in the stability of the emulsion. Oil must be added slowly in the beginning and in small quantities. Once the emulsion begins to form, the oil may be added more rapidly and in greater volume. Make sure that the egg yolk is absorbing the oil as it is incorporated into the emulsion. The vinegar or lemon juice may be added either in the beginning itself or during various stages alternately with the oil. Vinegar will thin the emulsion and make it more liquid. It also reduces the intensity of the yellow color of the egg yolk.






Separation of the emulsion may occur if:

  1. Oil is added too fast
  2. Oil is added in too large a volume at one time
  3. Improper and inefficient mixing techniques are used
  4. Ingredients are at the wrong temperature


Separation may be corrected by:

  1. Starting with a fresh egg yolk and using the separated mixture as the oil
  2. Starting with a small quantity of prepared mayonnaise and using the separated mixture as the oil
  3. Add one or two tablespoons of warm water to the separated mixture and mix vigorously

It is obvious that re emulsifying requires additional cost and labor besides time. Strict observance of quantities and prescribed methods will lessen the possibility of the sauce separating.

Fresh Mayonnaise may be stored in the refrigerator for upto two weeks and 3 to 5 °C. Remember; mayonnaise is a cold, UNCOOKED sauce that contains egg yolk, which is a perfect medium for the growth and multiplication of bacteria. A thin film of oil maybe found on the surface. This is useful as it will form a protective layer and preserve the mayonnaise even longer. It can be easily mixed back into the sauce just before use. Upon storage, this layer will once again

BASIC RECIPE


Egg Yolk 1 no

Salt a pinch

Oil 150 ml

Mustard paste 1 tablespoon

White pepper powder a pinch

White vinegar/

Lemon juice 15 ml

Method: Select an acid repelling bowl. Add egg yolks, seasoning and vinegar.

Beat well until well mixed

Add the oil, slowly at first and then a little faster.

When the mixture becomes heavy and sticks to the whisk, check the seasoning. Now add in the rest of the oil.

No other flavorings should be added to the basic mayonnaise, which would overpower the various sauces, which derive out of this basic mother sauce. If fruit juices such as orange and pineapple are to be used, omit the vinegar and lemon juice from the recipe.

Containers:

Always check the container that is to be used to prepare a mayonnaise. It should not react with the acid in the sauce. Aluminum and copper should be avoided. Glass, stainless steel, enamel are all ideal for making mayonnaise. Also make sure that the vessel is absolutely clean and does not have any unwanted flavors already in it.

vernon coelho

vfc/fpp 1.16

ihm mumbai

2003-04




























CHAPTER XIV: SOUPS

The popularity of soups today may be due to increased nutrition consciousness, due to a desire for simpler lighter meals, or due to an increased appreciation of how appetizing and satisfying soup can be. Whatever the reason, the emphasize the importance of soup making skills. Soup, according to a dictionary, is a liquid food derived from meat, poultry, fish or vegetable or a combination of them.

Classification of Soup

Soups can be classified into three main categories:

  1. Clear or un-thickened Soups
  2. Thick Soups
  3. Specialty and National Soups

Most of these soups, whatever the category, are based on stock. Thus the quality of soup depends upon the skill of stock making.

Clear Soups:

These soups are based on a clear, un-thickened broth or stock. They may be served plain or garnished with a variety of meats and vegetables.

  1. Broth and Bouillon are two terms used in many different ways, but in general they both refer to simple, clear soup without solid ingredients. Broth is the flavorful liquid obtained from simmering meat and/or vegetables, and is often the base for another soup.
  2. Vegetable Soup or cut vegetable soup is a clear, seasoned stock or broth with the addition of one or more vegetables and sometimes meat or poultry products and starch to lightly thicken and give body to the soup.
  3. Consomme is a rich flavorful stock that has been clarified to make it perfectly clear and transparent. Far from being a plain cup of soup, a well-made consommé is considered the greatest of all soups. Its sparkling clarity is a delight to the eye, and its rich, full flavor, strength, and body make it a perfect starter for an elegant dinner.

THICK SOUPS

Unlike clear soups, thick soups are opaque rather than transparent. They are thickened by a thickening agent such as a roux, or by pureeing one of the ingredients to provide a heavier consistency.

  1. Cream Soups are soups that are thickened with roux, beurre manie or liaison. Cream soups are usually named after the main ingredient such as Cream of Chicken or Cream of Tomato.
  2. Purees are soups that are naturally thickened by pureeing one or more of their ingredients. They are not as smooth or creamy as a cream soup. Purees are normally based on starchy ingredients like dried peas or from fresh starchy ingredients like potato. Purees may or may not contain milk or cream.
  3. Bisques are thickened soups made from shellfish. They are usually prepared like cream soups and finished off with cream.
  4. Veloutes are thick soups made with stock, liaison, roux and a flavoring. Are similar to cream soups but are much richer.
  5. Chowders are hearty soups of American origin and are made of fish, shellfish and/or vegetables. Although they are made in different ways, they usually contain milk and potatoes. Processed pork products like ham, bacon or dried sausages are also added. There is also a version based on tomatoes. Cheese also features prominently in chowders.
  6. Potage is a term sometimes associated with thick, hearty soups, but is actually a general term for soup. A clear soup is called potage clair in French.

SPECIALITY AND TRADITIONAL SOUPS:

This a general category for soups that do not fit into any of the previous groups. They are soups that are native to a particular region or country. Cold soups are sometimes categorized as specialty soups. The following are traditional soups from different parts of the world. Find out which countries they come from:










VICHYSOISSE

TURTLE SOUP

OXTAIL SOUP

GAZPACHO

SPINAZIE

MINESTRONE

LINSENSUPPE

MULLIGUTWANNY

BOUILLABAISSE

WATERZOI

GUMBO

BORTSCH

SERVICE OF SOUPS

The standard portion size for soup is 6 to 8 oz. (200 to 250 ml)

Serve hot soups piping hot in soup cups or bowls

Serve cold soups chilled in chilled cups or ideally, nesting in a container of crushed ice.

GARNISH:

Soup garnishes may be divided into three groups:

  1. Garnish in the soup: Major ingredient of the soup such as vegetables, poultry cut into small dices can be considered a garnish. Consommés are normally named after their garnish. Consommé Julienne is garnished with julienne of vegetables.
  2. Toppings: Thick soups are normally decorated with a topping. This could be a simple swirl of cream or chopped parsley, dill leaves of mint. Also included in this category are toasted sliced almonds, croutons, grated cheese, and crumbled bacon. Clear soups are rarely served with a topping.
  3. Accompaniments: Bread rolls, slices and sticks, cheese straws, melba toast, corn chips and cream cracker biscuits are all popular accompaniments for soup along with butter.

Draw a Chart detailing the Classification of Soups and mention examples of each type.

SOUP

________________________________________________________________

vernon coelho

ihm mumbai

2009-10

CONSOMME

CONSOMME IS A CLARIFIED STOCK. However, when we define consommé, we forget its literal meaning, which is completed or concentrated. In other words, consommé is a strong, concentrated clarified stock. Rule number one for preparing a consommé is that the stock must be strong, rich and concentrated (full-bodied). Clarification is second in importance to strength. A good consommé with a mellow but full aroma and plenty of body from the natural gelatin that you can feel in your mouth, is one of the great pleasures of fine cuisine!

HOW CLARIFICATION WORKS:

Coagulation of proteins was an important subject in our discussion on stock making, because one of our major concerns was how to keep coagulated proteins from making the stock cloudy. Strangely enough, it is this same process of coagulation that enables us to clarify stock to perfect transparency. Remember some proteins especially that called albumin, will dissolvein cold water. When the water is heated, they gradually solidify or coagulate and rise to the surface. If we control this process very carefully, these proteins will collect all the tiny particles that cloud a stock and will carry them to the surface. The stock is then left perfectly clear. If, on the other hand, we are not careful, these proteins will break up as they coagulate and will cloud the liquid even more, just as they can do when we make stock.

BASIC INGREDIENTS:

The mixture that we use to clarify the stock is called the clearmeat or the clarification.

  1. Lean minced meat is the major source of protein that enables the clearmeat to do its job. It also contributes towards the flavor of the consommé. It must be lean because fat is undesirable in a consommé as it will float on the surface after straining and give a greasy appearance to the soup. Beef shin and shank is the best cut to use as it is rice in albumin proteins as well as in flavor and gelatin, and it is very lean. Chicken meat should be used to clarify chicken stock and beef used for a beef consommé. Obviously, meat would not be used to clarify a fish stock! Although, ground fish meat could be used to clarify fish stock, often it is omitted altogether and only egg whites used in its place.
  1. Egg whites are included in the clearmeat, because being mainly albumin; they greatly strengthen the clarifying power.
  1. Mirepoix and other seasoning and flavoring ingredients are usually included because they add flavor to the finished consommé. They do not actually help in the clarification process except possibly to give solidity to the raft. The raft is the coagulated clearmeat floating in a solid mass on top of the consommé. The mirepoix must be cut into small pieces as it must float with the raft as well as the maximum exposed surface area will aid extraction of flavor and nutritive value. A larger amount of a particular vegetable may be added if a distinct flavor is called for, for example, celery flavored consommé.
  1. Acidic ingredients like vinegar and tomato for beef and chicken consommé and lemon juice and white wine for fish consommé are added because the acidity helps with the coagulation process.
  1. Seasoning and flavorings like salt, peppercorns and bayleaf are usually added.

PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING CONSOMME:

  1. Start with a well flavored and cooled down stock. If the stock is weak, reduce it to concentrate, then allow to cool and then begin. Else, simmer the consommé longer than the recommended time.
  1. Select a heavy stockpot.
  1. Combine the clearmeat ingredients in the stockpot and mix vigorously. Mix in a small amount of water. This allows the proteins, which do the clarifying to dissolve out of the meat. Some chefs will disagree on the importance of this step and will omit it altogether ( the addition of the water, that is).
  1. Gradually add the cool, degreased stock and mix well with the clearmeat. The stock needs to be cool so that it does not cook the proteins on contact. Mixing the clearmeat will distribute the proteins throughout the stock so that they can collect all the impurities more easily.
  1. Set the pot over a full fire and allow it to heat, stirring gently. This prevents the proteins of the egg white from settling at the bottom and burning. Let it come to a boil.
  1. As the stock heats up stop the stirring. As the stock comes to a boil, the clearmeat will rise to the surface as the raft and float on the top.
  1. Reduce the fire to as low as possible so that the liquid maintains a slow simmer. Do not cover the vessel. Boiling would break up the raft and cloud the consommé. The same principle was used in stock making, remember?!
  1. Simmer without disturbing the raft, for about half an hour to 45 minutes.
  1. Strain the consommé carefully through a wet muslin cloth. Do not force the liquid through or press the raft. Or fine particles will seep through and cloud the consommé.
  1. Degrease to remove all traces of fat from the surface. Use strips of brown paper to absorb traces of fat.
  1. Adjust the seasoning.

EMERGENCY PROCEDURES:

  1. Clarifying hot stock: if you do not have the time to cool the stock properly, at least cool it as much as you can. A cold water bath for even 10 minutes will be helpful. Then mix crushed ice cubes with the clearmeat before adding the stock. This will help to prevent the meat from coagulating when the stock hits it.
  1. Clarifying without meat: In a pinch, you could clarify stock using egg whites alone. Use extra egg whites and a little mirepoix if possible. Make sure that the stock in this case is a good and concentrated one. Care must be taken in this case as the raft is a very fragile one and may tend to break easily. Egg white and mirepoix are often used alone to clarify fish stock.
  1. Failed clarification: If the clarification process has failed because you allowed it to boil to long or for any other reason, it can still be rescued. Strain the consommé and allow it to cool as much as you can. Now slowly add it to a mixture of ice cubes and egg white. Carefully return the pan to a simmer and proceed with the clarification. However, the ice cubes will dilute the stock and this procedure must be used in emergencies only.
  1. Poor color: Beef or Veal consommés made from a brown stock must be amber in color and not dark brown. Chicken consommé will be pale amber. To improve the color, add a drop of caramel after straining, or a cut and browned (on a griddle) slice of onion, before the clarification.

BASIC CONSOMME:

Stock

(Chicken/beef/veal/fish) 1 liter

Lean meat (suitable) 100 GMS

Onion 30 GMS

Carrot 30 GMS

Celery 20 GMS

Egg white 1-2

(shell optional)

Vinegar/lemon juice/ 15 ml

wine (red or white)or

Tomato 20 gms

Peppercorn 4-6 nos.

Bayleaf 1 no

Salt a pinch


vernon coelho

ihm mumbai

2008-09